Caring guide 2017-01-12T21:36:38+00:00

Caring guide (read it all and read it twice)

  • DSC_2171Collar and lead
  • Wet wipes/tishues, bottle with water and plastic bag, in case your pup gets sick in the car
  • Car harness, travelcage or towel to put on your lap, for the pup’s transport
  • Poo-bags to clean up after your pup when he goes for a toilet stop
  • Dog bowl and water when the trip home is longer than an hour
  • Airport pick up: bring Photo ID and reservation number
  • Airport pick up is at National Cargo
  • DSC_2029Have a fully fenced area for your pup, where he can stay safely without escaping
  • Collar/harness and lead. Often a harness is a good way to start with, when walking your puppy.
  • A dogbed or mat, which will be a safe and quiet place for your pup
  • Dog bowls: one stainless steel bowl for food and one heavy stone bowl for water (that can’t be picked up or tipped over by puppy)
  • Puppy toys: strong, good quality dog toys like kong, solid ball, tug rope
  • Wire training cage: it’s not a must but it is very handy to have a cage where the pup is safe and can be left unattended, it is also a great help towards toilet training. Buy one as large as possible as your pup will grow very fast
  • Toilet area: think of an area where it is ok for your pup to go toilet, once you have appointed a place you can not blame him for keep going there, so think hard for a place that is also ok when your pup has become an adult dog
  • Teeth cleaners: dried pigs/beef/lambs/deer ears are perfect for cleaning your pups teeth
  • Food: have the food you want to give to your pup ready at home
  • Treats: when you want a pup that listens to his name and loves to learn, you will need treats to reward good behaviour and reward all attempts to get toilet trained.
  • Poo-bags to clean up after your pup
DSC_1437When the pup is leaving his place of birth at the age of 8-10 weeks it is important to realize a few things.

A pup is in desperate need of warmth and comfort to avoid stress. He wants to be with you, as he has never been alone so far. Understand why he is crying and don’t get upset when he does so the first nights. Set your personal boundaries and be consequent and clear in your instructions towards your puppy but also be reasonable and caring.

I hope you all have chosen to have an inside dog, a wire training cage is a great way to start his new life. The pup can live in the new family environment but will not spoil the carpet or eat your slippers. Make sure you only put the pup in his training cage if you do not have the time to watch him and when you put him in the cage always give him a treat. It is a myth that you spoil your pup if you put the training cage next to your bed the first days. We have done that with our pups and they were perfectly fine to sleep elsewhere after a week or two.

If the dog becomes an outside dog, have an insulated drought free kennel with enough room for the dog to walk around when he is fully grown. We rather see a dog in the garage or laundry, which is less cold and closer to human contact. Only put him in his kennel if you don’t have time for him. A Shepherd is not a dog that you can put in a kennel all day!!

When leaving your pup alone, make sure he is safe and has water. When inside, you can turn on the radio or tv to make him feel less alone.

Dog food

What are we feeding our dogs and puppies?
Our puppies will get a mix of grain-free biscuits and raw.
1/2 Acana Large Breed Puppy biscuits
1/2 raw (chicken, beef, veal, horse, heart, mutton, tripe, organs, fish,bones, briskets)

Our adults dogs are getting mainly raw.
1/3 grain-free biscuits (Orijen, Wishbone, Taste of the Wild)
2/3 raw (see below Raw diet)

Where to buy?
We are feeding Acana Large Breed Puppy to our puppies, bought at pet.co.nz but it is available in most bigger petshops and online.
Frozen raw we order online through the website: petfoodsales.co.nz

Pandora Kennels Food

We feed twice a day.

There is much to say about dog food. Whatever you want to feed your dog, remember a few things: a White Swiss Shepherd pup should be growing slowly and even. If you overfeed your pup, it might end up with hip and elbow problems.

An adult White Swiss Shepherd male should weigh 30 – 40 kg, an adult White Swiss Shepherd female should weigh 25 – 35 kg.
So when looking at your pup, it should be lean, not skinny and definitely not fat.
We recommend feeding your pup and adult dog, twice a day.

The options are:

RAW diet
40% raw meaty bones, for example: chicken necks, chicken frames, lambs brisket, beef brisket, veal bones.
40% muscle meat, for example: chicken mince, beef mince, veal mince, mutton mince, heart, horse mince
20% unbleached green tripe and organ meat: liver, kidney
a few pilchards a week
This can be bought frozen and you only have to de-frost it and give it to your dog. Do NOT cook it, as that makes the bones splinter which is potentially dangerous for your dog.
In 7-10 days your dogs needs to eat 3 different types of meaty bones, 3 different types of muscle meat, tripe and organs and pilchards. That way it will be a complete diet.
An adult White Swiss Shepherd needs about 1 kg of meat/meaty bones a day, divided over two meals.

BISCUITS
Definitely the most convenient diet, but not all Shepherds are happy to eat biscuits.
Have a look on this website: dogfoodanalysis.com to see what quality biscuits are, before you step into the marketing tricks of the giant dog food producers. Quality biscuits have at least 2 meat or fish as first and second ingredient. Biscuits which have corn, grain, pulp or soy as their first and/or second ingredient are not good for your dog.

More and more dogs have allergies and can not handle the grain and fillers that are the main ingredient in most dog food biscuits. Also preservatives and additives used in biscuits can be the cause of an allergy.

DSC_0179_resize

Puppy Slicker brush

When your pup is young and has a puppycoat, there is not a lot of maintenance on the coat. But it is important that you brush your puppy regularly to make him confident with grooming. Also check his ears, paws, eyes and open the mouth to check teeth. This is just to make it a normal procedure and could come in handy when going to the vet later on in life.
See picture for puppy slicker brush with protection knobs on the ends.

When the puppy coat has made place for the adult coat, regular grooming is needed to keep the coat neat and without mats. Especially the long coated dogs need a good brush at least twice a week. Check for knots behind the ears regularly.

DSC_0181_resize

Large slicker brush

For regular use, we use the ‘large slicker brush’ some models you can empty by pushing a knob on the back that pushes the hairs out.

DSC_0180_resize

Double rake

When the dogs change coats, twice a year, and loose their undercoat massively we use the ‘double rake’. The rake deals easily with the undercoat. We brush our dogs daily for two weeks with the double rake when they change their coats into summer or winter coat.

DSC_0469A young pup only needs a short walk. The rule is: weeks in minutes, so 10 weeks old is 10 minutes walk. Of course you can walk your pup several times a day. Plus it will play and run around a lot too.

Please no jogging, jumping up, walking stairs, jumping in cars, twisting moves while playing fetch, until he is at least a year, preferably 18 months old. The pup is growing at this stage and can easily damage hips and elbows when he does the things stated above. Wait until he is 18 months old. At this age and older they can walk and run and jump as much as you like.

P1020558Puppy training is about socializing and learning basic obedience. Learn how to gently control your pup and have patience if he does not understand what you are asking. The time you spend gently training your puppy now, will safe you triple the time later!

We expect every new puppy owner to complete a puppy course of at least 6 weeks. In every town there will be puppy training available. Start as soon as the pup has had all his vaccinations. Or at some places you can start even younger, with only puppies around.

Puppy training is just about learning the basics and we do stress the importance of continuing to train with your dog. Whether you would like to show, do agility, obedience or want a nice family pet, it is important to have an obedient and well socialized dog.

One of the easy things is to teach your pup how to sit. Before he gets his food, ask him to sit, don’t touch him just stand up straight and wait with the food bowl in you hands until he sits. When he sits, say “good sit” and give the food. It takes only a few meals before he will know what ‘sit’ means.

Whatever you want to teach your pup, remember to always have treats available as a reward when he does what you asked him to do. Especially when the pup is young, have tiny little treats in your pocket all the time. When you call him and he comes to you: treat. When he is having one of your slippers and he lets go after you yelled ‘leave’: treat.

Another way of treating a pup while training new things is making use of their play drive. If the pup has a favourite ball or toy, play with the toy and pup everytime he has done something you asked him to do.

When your pup gets older, he will get stronger too. If your older pup pulls a lot, try using a Halti (google for Halti or go to your local petshop). A Halti is a collar that goes over the nose and behind the ears of your dog. When he pulls, the Halti will put pressure on the nose, which isn’t comfortable for your dog. It takes a week or so to get used to the Halti, but after that everyone can walk your dog without any problems. At first use it for a few minutes and give a treat when putting the Halti on and when taking it off. When your dog is used to the Halti, you can use it for long walks too.
Make sure you use a Halti that has a security clip on the collar. That way when your dog tries to get the Halti off, the lead is still attached to the collar.
This is a very gentle way of training your dog to heel without hurting the dog.

DSC_1815Start with toilet training the minute you get your pup. Take him outside to a place where you want him to do his business, always the same place. If you don’t want your dog to do it on your lawn, do not toilet train your puppy on your lawn. What you learn your puppy to do the first 4 months of his life will be hard to change in later life.

Take your puppy outside every hour especially after eating and waking up and praise with food and cheering words if he does something outside. Make sure you praise him as soon as he is ready doing what he was doing, not before (otherwise he will stop) and not too late (otherwise he will not make the connection peeing outside & praise =good).

Take the pups water bowl away during late evening and night, to prevent peeing inside during the night. During the night you could put a newspaper on the laundry floor, they will often do it on the newspaper.

A trainingcage is perfect for toilet training, he will not like to spoil his cage/bed. As long as you take him outside as often as possible, he will be able to learn that he can wait until you take him outside.

Always take your puppy outside after feeding and waking up and wait, be patience, it takes time but they nearly always need to poo after feeding.
Some pups are toilet trained when they are very young and some are 6 months and still have accidents inside. Remember in the end they will all be toilet trained!!

When we are visiting people and bring a young pup, we always bring wet baby wipes and a few plastic bags to clean up after accidents.

1528518_10201501286002103_212677406_nOnce your pup has settled, let’s say after a few days. The most important thing has come: socializing your pup. When done properly in the first year, not only the first 16 weeks, it will settle for live. Socializing means getting your puppy used to people, other dogs, places and things.

Every time he does something he has never done or seen before, he is being socialized. Your puppy needs to be exposed to the world outside so he can learn how to live happily with all that goes on around him. He will decide for himself what’s safe and what isn’t, but he needs your steady guidance. With you there to help him, he will be introduced to a non-threatening world and will grow up confident and outgoing.

Taking your puppy with you when you visit a friend or neighbours socializes him. So does meeting strangers at home or while on a walk, playing with a friendly dog or examining a rugby ball. If you don’t have children make sure your pup spends time with children of friends.  He needs to learn to get used to cars and trucks and to ride contentedly in the car.

Start with socializing your pup right away and don’t wait until he has got all his vaccinations. If he isn’t fully immunized yet go to friends with fully vaccinated dogs and go to places were he can meet people.

1528536_780080425342027_1336476315_nVaccination: we vaccinate our pups around 7 weeks. The first vaccination will be done by us, the second and third vaccination is done by the new owner.
If you are planning your pup in a doggy daycare or boarding kennel, he has to be vaccinated for Kennelcough as well.
If you live in the northern half of the North Island, it is best to vaccinate for Lepto as well.

Vaccination scheme:
7 weeks old – Parvo
11 weeks old – DHP (& Lepto for mid and upper North Island)
15 weeks old – DHP (& Lepto for mid and upper North Island)
every 3 years DHP can be repeated

Worming: puppies and young dogs need to be wormed regularly, we worm the pups every 2 weeks until they leave for there forever home. Worming once a month until they are 6 months of age and thereafter once every 3 months. Adult dogs need worming at least twice yearly. Use a proper wormer like Drontal or if you like there are also natural wormers available, like apple cider.

Flea-treatment: when you live in urban area or when you know there are fleas around, you can use frontline or advocate which can be bought at the vets. We use natural flea treatment made out of Tea tree oil, Rosemary, Mint and Lavender as we don’t have fleas and this keeps them on a distance when we go out with our dogs.

Important: when your pup has worms or fleas, it is important to treat all dogs and cats in the house.

P1160143Getting used to car rides is very important, often pups are a bit motion sick and get better by doing short trips often. Don’t forget to bring:

  • Collar and lead
  • Wet wipes/tishues, bottle with water and plastic bag, in case your pup gets sick in the car
  • Car harness, travelcage or towel to put on your lap, for the pup’s transport
  • Poo-bags to clean up after your pup when he goes for a toilet stop
  • Dog bowl and water when the trip is longer than an hour
In the legal binding contract signed before taking the pup home, you declare that you will have the pup neutered or spayed between 8 and 10 months of age.
DO NOT let your vet talk you into spaying or neutering your puppy before 8 months of age!!
The chances of your dog getting hips or elbow dysplasia will increase greatly when de-sexing too early.

P1150986

The pup will leave us with a microchip. You will need to show the council the microchip number and register your pup before 3 months of age. Make sure to keep contact details up to date with your council.
The microchip needs to be registered to your name and contact details in case your pup or dog gets lost. You can do this in the National database see website: animalregister.co.nz . When you go to the vet for the second vaccination ask for the register form. Again make sure that your contact details are up to date at all times!
We will give lifelong breeders support to all our pups and dogs!
Please update us with pictures and stories.
Let us know when you have run into a problem.
Keep us updated when contact details like phone number, address or email address are changing.
And please ALWAYS contact us first when you want to re-home your dog!!

We are here to help, because we care!